Fall for Autumn!

Fall For Autumn with some tips on how to dress up your curb appeal!

“Fall for Autumn” Show Notes for On The House with the Carey Brothers aired November 7, 2020. 

Missed our live show? Don’t worry! Because we have a podcast of the show. It’s the same thing we aired on the radio, but ready for you whenever and wherever you are! Check it out here. 

We spoke to Peter Daich about the Daich Terrazzo Re-Launch!

We discussed their:

• New and improved formula 
• Now with finer grade stone  
• 5 vibrant new colors 
• No primer or sealer required 
• Exterior Uses: porches, steps, patios, walkways, pool decks, garage  floors, foundation walls, balconies 
• Interior uses: basement floors, entrances, steps, bathroom floors, shower areas 

 

Got Fall Curb Appeal?

Make way for the change of seasons and prep your entryway and outdoor space with warm, earthy colors for fall curb appeal that’s sure to please. 

Whether it’s a quick switch of the doormat, a new door wreath, a place to lounge or roses and pansies in pots and planters, these ideas will welcome fall — and your guests.  

Hang a wreath on the door 

The simplest and quickest way to welcome fall is by hang a fall wreath that makes a statement on your front door. Try a wreath that will take your door and porch decor through Thanksgiving. 

Be sure to use a wreath hanger to protect the door. We recommend using at least a 26-inch harvest wreath on an average front door.  

Perk up Containers 

Make the transition from a summer to fall look by adding some planters with seasonal colors to your space. Fill a whiskey barrel planter with a mix of annuals and perennials, shrubs, grasses, herbs and even succulents.  

For window box planters and vertical gardens, fill with potted ornamental peppers, grasses, cabbages and kales. Top with decorative moss. In the spring, move the ornamental grasses to a more permanent location in a container or in your landscape. Pansies and mums also make great options when potting containers. 

Don’t Forget Roses 

Another option to consider: Roses in containers. Now is a great time to plant colorful roses, whether climbing roses, shrub, hybrid tea or other varieties. The heat of summer is gone and there are fewer pests to deal with overall. In the landscape, try a mailbox garden with roses. For happy roses, plant in full sun or give them a spot that gets at least six hours of sun a day, in soil that drains easily.  

Instant Ambience 

For colorful curb appeal beyond planters, make outdoor decor come together with outdoor seating, throw pillows, a patio side table or garden stool. For more instant ambiance outdoors, try well-placed outdoor lighting to give the space an intimate look. 

Outdoor lighting can also include lanterns, string lights, ceiling fans and pathway lighting. 

And more 

You can also fall into the season by sprucing up your outdoor space with these ideas. 

• Dig up spent annuals with a hand trowel and compost anything unaffected by disease. 
• Rake away any landscape debris and use a leaf blower to clean up the outdoor space. 
• Aerate the lawn. 
• Pressure wash the driveway, a walkway, porch, deck or patio. 
• Add a fresh 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch around new trees, flowerbeds and other plants. 
• Fill bird feeders and add bird baths and watch feathered friends eat, drink and splash around 

 

How To Soundproof A Bedroom

Soundproofing in a home usually involves one of two approaches: keeping sound out of room or keeping sound in a room. For a home theater space or music room, the objective is to keep the sound in so it doesn’t travel to other areas of the house. Bedrooms usually belong in the other category; you want to keep out noise from other rooms and the outdoors to make the bedroom as quiet as possible. 

 However, you may also want to minimize noise inside a bedroom so that an awake person can move about more freely without disturbing someone sleeping. There are several options for addressing noise both inside and out. 

  

A Brief Introduction to Soundproofing 

There are two basic concepts for understanding sound (in this case, noise) and soundproofing. First, sound travels by sending vibrations through the air. It can also send vibrations through materials (like wood and drywall), which in turn vibrates the air on its way to your ears. Therefore, the primary goal of soundproofing is to block or absorb sound vibration. 

The second concept involves the two types of noise. Impact noise comes from things such as footsteps or bowling balls overhead or from crazy neighbors bouncing off the walls. Airborne noise comes from honking car horns or drunken night clubbers outside or from a TV in the next room. 

If sounds are coming from other rooms in your own house, you can employ soundproofing measures inside and/or outside the bedroom. If sounds are coming from outdoors or from neighboring units, you’re limited to soundproofing strategies for inside the bedroom. 

 

Sealing Air Leaks in Walls and Ceilings 

When soundproofing walls and ceilings between rooms, the first thing to look for is air channels. Likely culprits include electrical outlet and switch boxes, gaps behind baseboards, and HVAC vents. You can contact experts like Eco Pro to check it for you. Air is the best vehicle for sound, and any gaps or openings that let air through will also usher sound directly into the room. Windows and doors are other common sources of air leaks, and those are discussed below. 

You can seal air leaks at electrical boxes with special soundproofing outlet/switch covers, soundproofing putty or foam gaskets. For baseboard gaps, remove the baseboard and apply acoustical sealant between the drywall (or plaster) and the floor, then reinstall the baseboard. 

Air vents are a bit more complicated. Since they’re essential to heating/cooling your bedroom or circulating fresh air, you can’t cover up vents permanently. But if you really need some peace and quiet for a while, you can close a vent and cover it temporarily with a magnetic vent cover (to seal out air) as well as a piece of acoustical foam or a soundproofing material like mass loaded vinyl (MLV), a thin but very dense vinyl material that comes in rolls. 

 

Soundproofing Bedroom Walls and Ceilings 

The next level of stopping noise through walls and ceilings is to reduce the transmission of sound through the wall or ceiling assembly. Possible solutions range from rebuilding the wall to applying soundproofing materials on the bedroom-side surfaces: 

• Add sound-absorbing insulation, such as rock wool batts, between framing members if the wall or ceiling framing will be exposed, such as during remodeling activities. 
• Layer an exposed wall with an mass loaded vinyl, MLV sound barrier and one or more layers of soundproofing drywall. 
• Add an MLV sound barrier and a layer of soundproofing drywall over the existing wall or ceiling surface 
• Use noise-proofing compound (such as Green Glue) when installing new drywall over old. This is a special caulk-like material that reduces vibration transfer between the drywall layers. 
• Install resilient channels over the existing surface, then add a layer of soundproofing drywall. Resilient channels are metal strips that move slightly to help the drywall absorb vibration. 

Soundproofing Bedroom Floors 

The best and easiest way to make a bedroom floor quieter is to install wall-to-wall carpet with a good, dense pad. Carpet not only silences footsteps inside the room, it also absorbs airborne sound and prevents echoing that contributes to ambient noise. If you’re ready to replace your bedroom flooring, you can take the soundproofing a step further by refastening any loose areas of the subfloor (to stop squeaks) and taping the subfloor joints with metal tape (to stop air leakage). Then, you can add a layer of MLV sound barrier (and tape the seams) before laying down the carpet pad. MLV also is available with an optional acoustical foam layer for additional floor soundproofing. 

Soundproofing Bedroom Doors and Windows 

Doors and windows can be the biggest contributors to noise transmission in a bedroom because they’re made with relatively thin materials, and they’re usually riddled with air gaps. Therefore, the solution is two-pronged: add density and stop air leaks. 

To add density to a door—especially a thin, hollow door—you can install a layer of MLV or acoustical sound board to the room-side of the door, or you replace the door with a solid, slab-style door, which is thicker overall than panel-style doors. To stop air leakage, remove the door trim and seal around the rough door framing with acoustical sealant, and add weather-stripping to the sides and top of the door opening, just as you would to seal out cold air. Most important, add a threshold and/or door sweep to seal any gap at the bottom of the door. Even a small gap here can let in a tremendous amount of sound. 

Air-seal leaky windows just as you do with doors, using acoustical sealant and weather-stripping. As for the glass itself, if you have quality double- or triple-pane thermal windows, they’re probably pretty soundproof as is, but if you have old single-pane windows or older thermal window that don’t seal very well, you have a few options: 

• Add clear plastic window inserts, which provide a secondary air barrier and create a dead air space between the window and the insert, much like old-fashioned storm windows. 
• Install heavy soundproofing drapes. It’s best if these extend from floor to ceiling and at least 3 inches beyond the sides of the window. Another, more streamlined, option is soundproofing blinds. 
• Build your own window plugs—removable panels made with plywood and a thick layer of acoustical foam insulation (and perhaps a layer of MLV). A plug fits snugly into the window opening to block air, sound and light. You simply plug them into place when it’s time to sleep, and store them under the bed or in a closet when they’re not in use. 

 

Reducing Bedroom Noise With Decor 

Despite claims to the contrary, décor items—like wall hangings and soft furnishings—will do very little to keep sound from coming into a bedroom. What they can do effectively is reduce noise generated inside the room. They do this by absorbing sound vibrations and suppressing echo. Of course, soft and deeply textured materials do this much better than hard, smooth materials. If you keep this rule in mind, any décor features you add will help minimize noise, from upholstered furniture and tapestries to area rugs (if you don’t have carpet) and throw pillows. 

 

Emergencies: Shutting off Gas, Water, & Power 

• A corroded washing machine hose, flickering lights and the faint odor of natural gas can each be a sure signed of impending disaster.A corroded washing machine hose can be the cause of a flooded home that can destroy a host of finishes from flooring to furniture. 
• Lights that flicker are a signal that there is a problem with the electrical system. Potential causes of such a problem could range from a loose wire connection to an overstressed circuit. Unfortunately, both can cause a fire that can level a house. 
• Finally, if your sniffer detects natural gas in the air, there is most likely a leak at a fitting that connects the individual pieces of gas line together or the gas line to an appliance. In either case, errant natural gas is a bomb waiting to go off. 
• Sound frightening? It should. All of these disasters can be avoided with some preventive maintenance. Sadly, however, even with the best of maintenance routines disaster can strike and when it does, your best defense from chaos and devastation is a strong offence – be prepared! 
• The first and most important step in being prepared for an emergency is knowing where and how to shut off the water, gas and power to your home. As remodeling contractors, we are amazed at the number of people who have no idea where these devices are located or how to turn them off. Furthermore, it isn’t enough that only one person in a multi-person household knows where these devices are located and how to turn them off. All adults and teenagers should be have this information as well. 
• When it comes to the water supply to your home, there are typically a couple of locations where it can be turned off. The first is at the water main. The water main consists of a large valve with an analog or numeric gauge that is used to measure the amount of water that you consume. Although a water meter can be located virtually anywhere surrounding your home, it is generally located below grade in a concrete box with a concrete or metal lid. The box is located in the sidewalk or in a planter near the sidewalk. 
• The lid can be opened using a large screwdriver or pry bar. In most cases the lid is regularly opened and closed by the utility company to read the meter, thus it should be easy to open in the case of an emergency. If, on the other hand the box is rarely opened, do so periodically to avoid having to struggle in an emergency. 
• The easiest means of turning off the water at the water main is with a water meter wrench. It is shaped like a “T” with a slot at the bottom that fits over a lug on the valve. This type of wrench is made of metal and stands about 30 inches tall. Other wrenches can be used, but may require more strength than most people have. 
• A second location to turn off all of the water to the house is the main water shut off valve – not to be confused with the water main discussed earlier. The main water shut off valve is typically located where the main water line enters the home. This is at the outside wall of a home or in the basement. It is a gate valve that must be turned clockwise several rotations to fully close it and prevent the flow of water. No tools are generally needed to operate this valve. 
• There is another means of turning off water – the “the fixture shutoff valve” or “angle stop. “Unlike the two previously mentioned valves, these valves only control flow to a given fixture and not the entire house. These valves are generally located at each plumbing fixture with the exception of a tub or show. Therefore, they can be found at toilets, sinks, automatic dishwashers and icemakers. A variation of this valve can be found at the clothes washer. A shut off valve can also be found at the top of a water heater. 
• Like water, gas can be shut off in more than one location. To turn off all of the gas supplied to your home, it should be done at the meter. As with the water main, although the gas main can be located virtually anywhere on your property, it is typically located at an exterior wall that is in close proximity to the street. The gas meter is used to join incoming gas from the utility company to the gas pipes that run throughout your home to the various gas appliances. The meter is also used to measure the amount of gas that you consume. 
• There is a gas whole house shut off valve located on the pipe at the utility side of the meter. To turn the gas off to the entire house simply turn the lug on the valve perpendicular to the pipe. An adjustable or open-end wrench can be used to operate the valve. We suggest attaching a wrench to the gas meter with a short length of chain. This will prevent the need to search for a wrench in the event of an emergency. Keep in mind that gas lines are still filled with gas even after the valve has been closed. Therefore, the lines should be bled before attempting any work. 
• If you suspect that there is a gas leak at an appliance or the gas to an individual appliance needs to be turned off, closing the appliance gas shut off valve located at each appliance can do this. As with the valve at the gas meter, an appliance gas shut off valve is can be turned off by rotating it 90 degrees or at a right angle to the gas line, if you notice something wrong with the appliance, it’d be best to visit  websites like https://www.dewaardandbode.com/appliances/. CAUTION: If you suspect a gas leak, immediately turn off the gas to the house and call the utility company emergency service department. 
• Electrical power is supplied to a home via wires that are connected to a main service panel. The service panel can contain either fuses or breakers depending upon the age of the home and/or the panel. Often, if the main service contains only one breaker – “the main breaker,” there is are one or more secondary or “subpanels” that contain breakers or fuses that control power sent to various circuits throughout your home. 
• Use the fuse or main breaker in the main service to shut off power to your entire house. Pulling the fuse or tripping the breaker does this. If you wish only to turn the power off to a branch circuit (as when making a repair) tripping the breaker or removing the fuse for that individual circuit can do this. 
• Loose lips might sink ships, but loose electrical wires can level a home. If you suspect a problem with your electrical system, call the service department of your local utility company or a qualified electrician to make an inspection. 

 

Is A Ladder Just A Ladder?  

Which Type Of Ladder You Should Choose – 9 Different Kinds Of Ladders 

The ladder may be one of the most common home improvement tools, but that doesn’t mean that it should be an easy buy. In fact, as an improper ladder can be a serious safety hazard, it is imperative that you research the different types of ladders that are on the market before you buy one for yourself. Otherwise, you may run the risk of a grave personal injury. 

How to Choose the Right Ladder for You 

What are You Using a Ladder For? 

There is a reason why there are so many different types of ladders available on the market — not every project is created equal! Before you choose a ladder for your project, you should consider whether or not you are performing indoor or outdoor work, how long your task will take, and how often you will need to use this ladder. 

How High is the Surface You’re Reaching? 

Ok, so this one is pretty obvious, but we still think it’s important to mention. After all, you do not want to buy a 14-foot ladder only to discover that the rooftop you are trying to reach is 16 feet. If possible, try to determine a height measurement of your project before procuring a ladder. 

How Heavy of a Ladder Do You Need? 

A ladder’s weight will affect its capabilities. Generally speaking, the heavier the ladder, the more stable it will be. However, this doesn’t mean that a heavy ladder is necessarily better. 

Do You Have the Space to Store a Ladder? 

While some homeowners have garages and other designated storage facilities, this is not the reality for everyone. Unless you have the ample space to store a ladder and you predict that you will be using the ladder several times within the year, you may actually be better off renting one for your projects. 

The Most Common Types of Ladders

Extension Ladder 

An extension ladder is most likely what you think of when you envision the word “ladder”. An extension ladder is named for its ability to adjust to whichever length your project requires. This flexibility makes the extension ladder a great choice for the average homeowner who may have a variety of projects to take on, such as painting a house or patching a roof. 

An extension ladder will come with two parts: a base and a fly. The base, of course, is what sits on the ground. A fly is what can extend to reach necessary heights. Although an extension ladder will come with certain safety features, it cannot self support itself and will need to be securely in place. 

Step Ladder 

While it’s true that not every home is likely to own an extension ladder, the vast majority of homes likely have a stepladder on hand. A step ladder is a handy miniature type of ladder that is useful for a variety of interior repairs, such as the changing of a light fixture or reaching a high cupboard. 

Unlike an extension ladder, a stepladder is self-supporting, which makes it possible to use on your own. Some designs will feature steps on either side of the ladder, while some will only feature steps on one side. 

Multipurpose Ladder 

A multipurpose ladder is a sort of hybrid between a stepladder and an extension ladder. Like an extension ladder, it can be quite tall. Like a step ladder, it is self-supporting. It is a popular choice for warehouses. 

One disadvantage of the multipurpose ladder is that its height is not changeable. Still, it makes for a practical choice for any contractor to have on-hand for quick and relatively reachable jobs. 

Step Stool 

Like a stepladder, a step stool gives its user only a small boost. However, it differs from a stepladder in that it only has one usable step (sometimes two). As such, a step stool is really at its most useful when it is kept in a permanent home, likely underneath a hard-to-reach cupboard or area. 

Step stools are handy to have around the house, as they are a cost-effective way to prevent unnecessary stretching, which could lead to injury. 

Articulated Ladder 

An articulated ladder folds up to a compact size and is, as a result, very easy to transport. The ladder works with a series of hinges that will lock in to fit a desired height. Thanks to its customizable, it can fit a number of projects at a variety of heights. 

Attic Ladder 

If you grew up with a storage section at the top of your house, then chances are you had some sort of attic ladder as a way of entry. An attic ladder is, in the literal sense of the word, a ladder that pulls down from the ceiling to provide access to an attic. They generally stay in one place and cannot be taken to other locations for use. 

Podium Ladder 

A podium ladder is unique for its flat standing space. This standing space, which can also be called a podium, provides a steady and stable place for a user to stand while they complete a task. A podium may be a more comfortable alternative than a standard extension ladder, especially if the worker has to spend a long time at the top of the ladder. 

Five-Step Portable Ladder 

A podium ladder is unique for its flat standing space. This standing space, which can also be called a podium, provides a steady and stable place for a user to stand while they complete a task. A podium may be a more comfortable alternative than a standard extension ladder, especially if the worker has to spend a long time at the top of the ladder. 

Five-Step Portable Ladder 

Anyone who has painted a house, whether professionally or not, knows how long one may have to spend standing on top of a ladder. This is especially true if you have tall ceilings, or if you are even painting the ceilings themselves! 

An A-frame paint ladder is a must for anyone who uses a ladder for the purpose of painting. It is unique for its side shelf that has room for a paint can and brush. This may seem unnecessary, but you won’t be thinking of it as useless when you are saved many trips down the steps to refill your paintbrush. 

 

Ladder Safety Tips 

Use the Correct Ladder Length 

In order to prevent injury caused by falls, it is important that you use the correct length of ladder for your project. Using a ladder that is too short may require you to reach haphazardly to perform a task, and using a ladder that is too tall may cause you to lean over awkwardly. If you do not have the correct length of ladder for your project, it is essential that you pause the work until you are able to secure a ladder that is the correct length. 

Perform a Ladder Inspection Before Using It 

Even if you have used a ladder recently, it is still important that you perform a visual inspection of the ladder before employing its use. To perform a visual inspection, you should examine every part of your ladder to look for missing screws or damaged parts. 

Set Ladder on Steady Surface 

In order to ensure that you are doing everything you can to reduce your risk of falling, it is very important that you do not place a ladder on a shaky surface. This means that you should only set a ladder down on solid ground, and not on top of a platform of any kind. 

Properly Secure the Ladder 

It is important to secure your ladder at its destination to ensure that it does not slide sideways or slip. Lateral movement is one of the biggest, if not the biggest, hazard when it comes to using a ladder. Securing a ladder involves attaching it to the building you are working on, either with ladder hooks, ropes, or wires. 

Install the Ladder Correctly 

There is a common rule in ladders that is known as the “4 to 1 rule”. This refers to the fact that your ladder should be set to be one foot away from the wall for every four feet it reaches upwards. Following this is the only way to ensure that your ladder is installed correctly. 

 

Mentioned Links 

• https://www.homedepot.com/c/ai/5-ways-to-boost-fall-curb-appeal-/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90159a013cf
• https://www.hunker.com/13716748/how-to-soundproof-a-bedroom
• https://onthehouse.com/emergencies-shutting-gas-water-power/
• https://www.homedit.com/types-of-ladders/

~ Thank you~ 

Thank you for tuning in to fall in love with Autumn! And check in next week for more cool tips!

A very special thank you to all of our callers! We live to answer your questions, so keep them coming! 

Thank you to our Technical Support: 

• Danny Bringer – Chief Engineer  
• Carol “Remodeling Babe” Carey – Executive Producer  
• Sam Reed – Associate Producer  
• Rico Figliolini – Digital Master 

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